It's
not often that we, as foreigners in Indonesia, are given the opportunity
to delve deeply into the cultural traditions of traditional Indonesian
ceremonies. Recently, Hartmuth “Heinz” Kathmann and his lovely bride, Rose
Merry Ginting, gave me that opportunity. Merry's father, Rakatta Ginting,
served as our cultural guide as we discussed and looked at hundreds of
pictures which document the traditional ceremonies in their recent marriage.
While each of the major Batak societies/tribes (Alas-Kluet, Angkola,
Dairi, Karo, Mandailing, Pakpak, Simalungun, Sipirok, and Toba) are related,
they have distinctive languages, customs and cultures. The traditional
Batak homelands surround Toba Lake in North Sumatra. Merry Ginting is from
the Ginting marga (clan) of the Karo Batak ethnic group, and her
family ensured that the necessary wedding customs were followed, even though
she was marrying a German national.
You Must Become a Batak, Heinz!
The primary obstacle to Heinz and Merry's marriage was the Batak
tradition that a Batak can only marry another Batak, so Heinz had to be
accepted into a Batak marga. Since tradition further stipulates
that a man may not marry a woman from his own clan, Batak grooms have to
search among the other 451 marga for a wife. Fortunately, non-Batak
grooms can be adopted by a willing Batak clan and thereby marry a Batak
wife according to tradition.
The marga is an extensive, complex system of relationships between
Batak family members within the clan and between clans. Each person, dependent
on their relationship to others through parentage, sibling relationships
or marriage has their own place in the relationships between clans, represented
by a specific term. Unweaving this web of relationships is difficult at
best and near to impossible without hours of study of the various ways
in which people are considered to be related.
In Heinz's case, the adoptive family was the Brahmana clan of Merry's
father's younger sister. Heinz's adoptive parents held a special ceremony
to discuss and get their permission for this adoption from their related
clan members. All clan members must agree, as the newly admitted son becomes
their relative as well.
As the Batak are patrilineal, the discussions were held between the
male elders of the Brahmana family groupings which would be affected by
Heinz's joining the marga. The family grouping representatives involved
in this ceremony were the:
- puang kalimbubu - the prospective mother in-law's clan (Tarigan)
- kalimbubu - the prospective mother's clan (Ginting)
- sembuyak - the prospective father's clan (Brahmana)
- anak beru - all the women in the father's clan (Brahmana women)
Heinz sat with these family grouping representatives, and gave the symbolic
gifts of a uis nipis (traditional ulos textile),
a parang (dagger) and money, in this case a symbolic amount of Rp
12,000. The men accepted the uis nipis, and put the textile over
their shoulders.
Discussions followed where Heinz and the family representatives discussed
his joining the clan. At the successful conclusion of the discussions,
the Brahmana family gave Heinz a uis nipis as a symbol of his acceptance
into the clan. The textile was placed over his shoulders, and Heinz was
then considered a son of his new parents and a full member of the Brahmana
clan, with full rights and obligations, except the right of inheritance.
As he was now a Batak, he could proceed with marrying Merry.
Requesting Merry's Hand in Marriage
Heinz and his new clan members took part in two traditional ceremonies (pesta
adat) to seek permission to wed Merry, the ngembah belo selambar (which means to bring a sirih leaf) and the nganting manuk (which
means to bring a chicken). Heinz's new family went with him to the Ginting
household to conduct these traditional ceremonies. As the prospective
groom, the cost of the ceremonies was Heinz's responsibility.
Ngembah belo selambar opens with the giving of the traditional
gift of kampil. As dictated by tradition, Heinz gave kampil to his sembuyak, kalimbubu, puang kalimbubu, anak beru and perbibin (maternal aunts).
The kampil is a closed basket, which is woven from pandanus
leaves. It contains the ingredients for smoking and betel chew . tobacco, matches or a lighter, sirih and other betel chew
ingredients and small food items. The gifts are consumed as friendly conversation
is enjoyed. When finished, the basket is returned empty and the ceremony
can begin.
Discussions ensue between the two families . to determine if everyone
is in agreement with the marriage, what the dowry will be, where the wedding
will be held, how many people will be invited, what the wedding will cost,
and who will pay for it. Men and women are separated during these discussions,
with the men making all the decisions.
Following the successful conclusion of marriage negotiations in the ngembah
belo selambar, either on the same day or soon thereafter, the nganting
manuk ceremony is held for the symbolic payment of the dowry. Traditionally,
the prospective groom's family brings a chicken to the bride's house,
as the name of the ceremony implies. Nowadays, the chicken is usually
accompanied by a traditional meal.
The
dowry is symbolic of the replacement cost of the loss of the female to
the clan. The amount is determined by the bride's family and is the same
for all the clan's women who get married. In the Ginting clan the amount
is Rp 286,000. If this sum sounds small, note that it was much lower before
the monetary crisis, only Rp 120,000. The actual dowry will be paid at
the wedding reception to members of the bride's family.
As most Karo Batak are Christian, a wedding ceremony in the church follows
the two traditional ceremonies so the church can bless the union. The
newlyweds usually dress up in western wedding finery, with an elaborate
white dress and suit/tuxedo. The church ceremony must also be followed
by a visit to the Civil Registry office to ensure the government legally
registers the marriage.
The Wedding Reception
Anyone who has ever been to a Karo Batak wedding reception can see that
the Karo sure know how to enjoy a wedding party, which they refer to as
the Kerja si
mbelin (pesta besar), or big party. The Karo bring new meaning to
the adage, “Eat, drink and be merry” as a good time is had by all attending
family and friends.
The Procession
The wedding party enters the reception hall in a long processional
with the bride and groom leading the way, followed
by the bride's parents, the groom's parents and then the close family members,
grandparents, aunts, uncles and cousins. The groom's anak beru throw
rice in front of the couple, to symbolize fertility.
As the procession reaches the center of the hall, it stops and the
family members separate with the bride's family sitting on woven mats (tikar)
on one side of the hall, and the groom's family sitting on mats on the
other side of the hall, facing each other. One distinctive feature of a
Karo Batak wedding reception is that guests are seated on mats, not on
chairs.
The anak
beru of the bride's family cross the room to offer traditional kampil gifts
to the groom's family as a sign of respect, though they don't necessarily
have to partake of the contents during the reception.
The women of the bride's and groom's family then discuss the dowry
that was agreed upon, and the groom's family pays the dowry to the members
of the bride's family present at the ceremony. Even if they each receive
Rp 500 or Rp 1,000, they feel compensated!
The groom's family formally states that since they've paid the dowry
they would like to assume possession of the bride. Both families stand
and escort the bride and groom to meet in the center of the room, all doing
the traditional landek dance.
Since the dowry has been paid and accepted, according to Batak tradition
the couple is now considered married.
The families return to their respective sides of the room and the
bride and groom are left dancing in the center of the room, with all eyes
on the newlyweds. They dance the landek and sing to entertain their
guests. As they sing and dance, family and friends come forward and put
money in a basket at their feet as wedding gifts. The money is a modern
custom and is not required by traditional customs (adat).
When the newlyweds finish entertaining their guests, they are accompanied
by their families who dance the landek down the hall to the stage
(pelaminan) where the bride and groom sit in a highly decorated
setting with both sets of parents. In this instance, since Heinz was adopted
into the Brahmana marga, his adoptive parents were onstage, as well as
his actual brother and sister who flew in from Germany for the festive
occasion.
Speeches
After the family members are seated, the speeches begin. The first
speeches are given by representatives of the groom's family, followed by
the bride's family representatives. Both begin with speeches from their sembuyak,
then the kalimbubu, and finally the anak beru. The newlyweds
descend from the stage and stand before the various family groups as they
give them advice on marriage, and how to maintain good relations with their
in-laws and other family members.
At Heinz and Merry's reception the truly international flavor of
the event led to speeches in Bahasa Indonesia, German, English, and of
course the Batak Karo dialect.
As the various family groupings come forward and the representative
gives the advice to the newlyweds, anyone within that family grouping who
wants to give a gift to the couple comes forward and does so.
Traditionally, close family members give textiles to the couple.
These include uis nipis, batik and other textiles, which are closely wrapped around the couple's shoulders, bringing them
close together, symbolizing the togetherness of marriage. A batik selendang is
often wrapped around the couple as a symbol of hoped for fertility as the selendang will one day hold the children that will come from the union. These ritual
gift exchanges between the bride-giving and bride-receiving sides of the
families are believed to increase fertility in the marriage.
Another traditional gift is the luah berebere. These practical
household items are given by the bride's maternal uncle's family (kalimbubu). They symbolize the setting up of the newlywed's household. Traditionally, luah berebere includes:
mattress, pillows, sheets, dishes, glasses, silverware, an oil lamp, rice
and bowls. In addition to the practical items, food is given which must
include one chicken egg and two live yellowish-color hens, which symbolize
fertility for the new couple.
When the wedding reception is concluded tradition demands that the
bride and groom must return to the groom's family home and reside for four
days and nights, without ever leaving the home for any reason. This practice
dates back
to ancient pre-Christian customs where the groom's family prevented the
possible kidnapping of a reluctant bride by a thwarted lover.
The elaborate ceremonies in a traditional Karo Batak wedding are
filled with symbolic rituals and customs. These customs ensure the acceptance
of the new union by their new families, establish the intricate relationships
that will govern their lives and provide the opportunity for family members
to extend advice and good wishes and give gifts to the happy couple. A
Karo Batak wedding is a richly meaningful life-cycle event, enjoyed and
celebrated by all the members of the families involved.
Traditional Wedding Dress
As in all traditional Indonesian wedding ceremonies, the wearing
of elaborate traditional clothing is required. Heavy ornamentation with
accessories and layers of various fabrics utilize colors and designs which
are highly symbolic to the Karo Batak.
The bride's heavy headdress is called tudung gul. The groom's
hat is called bulang-bulang. The bride and groom are
both adorned in a variety of gold accessories, called emas sertali.
These include earrings, necklace and bracelets. While solid gold heirloom
accessories are lent to young brides by their female relatives, many modern
brides opt for gold-plated accessories, as they are much lighter to wear.
The solid gold accessories can weigh over 2 1/2 kilograms.
The traditional Batak ulos textiles used in the wedding dress
are all called uis nipis. However, they have different, special
names when used in wedding dress, dependent on where they are worn on the
body.
The uis nipis worn over Heinz's shoulders was the one given
him during the ceremony to enter the Brahmana marga and is called langge-langge.
The bride is wearing a sarong songket Palembang, and over that a
red uis nipis which is called ndawa when worn wrapped around
the hips in the wedding costume. The black textile that is worn by both
bride and groom is called julu.
by Danielle Surkatty
First published in Kem Chicks' World in September 2001.
Note: Please note that Karo Batak wedding traditions vary, depending
on the region that the person is from! |