To operate a motor vehicle in Indonesia, you must understand the
transportation gestalt in an entirely different way. Definitions that you
thought were above redefinition will immediately be redefined. Please pay
attention.
The Road:
Includes not only the paved portion of the highway, but also what
others might call the verge, the curb, the sidewalk, the front yard and
the roadside restaurant. The paved portion of the roadway is generally
one lane wide. Not one lane in each direction, but one lane.
Respect:
All animals are granted the greatest respect in Indonesia. It is
presumed that, being highly evolved creatures, chickens and dogs and the
like know how to sidestep a Mitsubishi going 78 mph on a fog shrouded road
during a national religious holiday.
This same position of honor is granted to small children, men with
30 pounds of hay on their heads, unattended oxcarts and elderly women in
mystic trances. Slowing or swerving to avoid these beings would cause them
dishonor.
Lanes:
These colorful white and yellow markings wish a hearty Selamat
Datang (welcome) to every traveler. They have no other function.
Passing:
The national sport of Indonesia. Observant motorists may encounter
the vertical triple (passing three vehicles in one acceleratory movement),
the horizontal triple (passing a vehicle that itself is in the process
of passing a vehicle), or even the rare double-double (passing a vehicle
at precisely the same time that another vehicle, coming in the other direction
is also engaged in the act of passing).
Tailgating:
What to do when not passing.
Being Passed:
An insult not to be endured. The greater the differential between
your vehicle (say, a Boeing 747), the great the potential loss of prestige.
The owner of the less powerful vehicle must always do everything in his/her
power to thwart the attempt to overtake.
Seat Belts:
Absolutely unnecessary. Not only are they not worn, they are not
even provided. Passengers are fully protected by the horn.
Lights:
Rapidly blinking the headlights can mean many things, including "OK
to pass now," "dangerous to pass now," "get out the way," or "may you find
the thread of gold in the linen of existence. "It takes years, sometimes
entire lifetimes, to learn this subtle and intriguing intuitive nonverbal
communication skill. Generally, however, you have about three seconds.
The Horn:
When sounded loudly and frequently, the horn sets up an invisible
energy barrier protecting the vehicle and its inhabitants from all harm.
The faster the vehicle is going, the better the horn works. This is the
central concept of Indonesian motoring.
Accidents:
Rare. Usually the result of a malfunctioning horn.
Adapted from: An article by Jon Carroll, San Francisco Chronicle,
November 4, 1988
(and not much has changed since then :)
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