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Green House Restaurant Review

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The maxim, “Don't judge a book by its cover” certainly applies to one new eatery in Kelapa Gading, North Jakarta. In all appearances Green House looks like many other rumah makan (small restaurant). But, don't be deceived by its seeming ordinariness. The food is great value for money, the premises are clean, the staff friendly and helpful. Even the customers - there are many regulars - are friendly and welcoming. Many Green House customers are school children and mothers who come to pick up their children from school; others seem to be young executives and housewives.

Green House occupies the ground floor of a ruko (shop-house). It has no air-conditioning but is quite cool if you sit on the chairs far from the entrance. It has only around five large tables and from whatever chair you are sitting in you are likely to be faced with a statue of a smiling tubby Buddha, as there are six of them - perhaps he is considered the patron of gastronomical delight! Facing a large privately run high school, SMU Tunas Karya, children still in uniform are often seen there at lunchtimes and after school hours. They usually eat from the cafeteria-style section at the front where they can get rice and a generous selection of five other side dishes for only Rp 6,000, such as Rendang Kari (Curried Meatballs made from dried mushroom), Tahu Rumput Laut (Tofu and Seaweed), Tempe Asam Manis (Sweet and Sour Tempeh), Balado Kentang (spicy potato) plus the vegetable soup of the day. The menu is changed daily as the school children always look forward to eating something new.

But, however tempting that section seemed - to really sample their distinctive cuisine, one must order from the menu. The menu is divided into soups, around 15 or so choices including Asparagus Soup, Tom Yam Soup, Corn Soup and Soup Kumis Naga (Dragon's moustache, which I was assured was made of fine black seaweed); rice and noodle dishes; vegetable dishes; tofu dishes; a sweet and sour selection; seafood selection, including vegetarian calamari; and fried munchies (gorengan) such as Udang Tempura (Prawn Tempura) and Satay. Drinks include fresh juices such as orange, melon, tomato, carrot and watermelon, along with the usual selection of teas. Unfortunately for those who like to end their meal with something sweet, like many other vegetarian restaurants in Jakarta, there are no deserts.

We were guided through the menu by Pak Kim Sui who enthusiastically shuttled back and forth and piled up our table with dishes he recommended. The Samudra Kailan featured crunchy kailan greens in a thick sauce with seaweed, prawns and mushroom. Sapo Tahu Jepang used silky Japanese tofu, in a delicately flavored sauce with veggie ham and seaweed. The Udang Isi Ham Saos Mentega (Ham stuffed Prawns in Butter Sauce) was heavenly. Also worth trying is Jangki Asam Manis (Sweet and Sour Fish), a tangy sauce accompanies the fish with strips of bell pepper and carrot. The Udang Tempura (Prawn Tempura) is also delectable.

Portions are generous. The Asparagus Soup for example at Rp 12,000 for one serving was enough for three people. A rice or noodle dish is only Rp 7,000, while sweet and sour dishes, tofu dishes and the gorengan are all between Rp 10,000 and Rp 15,000. Fresh juices are only Rp 3,000. A Saturday special is Bubur Hong Kong (rice porridge, Hong Kong style).

A word of warning about the location; although the address reads Jl. Boulevard Raya it is in fact off the main road behind the corner branch of BNI bank. The easiest way to find it is by taking Jl. Boulevard Barat and turning right at the traffic circle into Jl. Boulevard Raya. Take the small road alongside the bank and Green House is on the second street on the left, opposite a large school.

A branch of Happy Vegetarian (ex Happy Buddha) restaurant in Bali and Malang, Green House has only been open four months. Judging by its wonderful fare and loyal clientele it should be around for a long time to come.

Green House
Green House Vegetarian
Jl. Sumagung 3 Blok E ¾
t: 021 - 4527620
Open 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily. Closed every second Sunday of the month.
Delivery available in the Kelapa Gading area

First published in Nirvana, September 2002
by Melinda J. Hewitt

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